elm is me and I am elm.

“There is little light in northern Scotland in mid-winter, and as we entered a new lockdown, everything seemed to get that little bit darker. Like most people, the freedom of the daily walk once again took on new significance as our worlds shrank back […] looking online for new places we could explore locally, I happened on Den Wood. The only Woodland Trust managed site in the North East of Scotland…”

FromWinter in Den WoodElsewhere: a Journal of Place.

Three years on and Den Wood has become a semi-regular haunt. I like to visit throughout the year to see it in the changing seasons, feel the woodland in all its different atmospheres. I returned there again earlier this month – before storm Isha, before that brief covering of snow was swept clear by Isha’s warm Atlantic airmass.

Winter always feels special in the wood – still and redolent with potential; a place on the edge of happening. I felt slightly disoriented, set slightly off balance. A familiar wood had become strange to me again, its well-trodden pathways submerged in a layer of snow – a trail of ill-defined footprints twisting through the closely-packed, naked trees. The moon was out, a thumbprint in the pale ink of the sky, the sun dragging the last of the daylight through the tops of the branches.

I came eventually to a crown of wych elm that had first drawn me to the wood three years previous. Once commonly found growing at the sites of tumuli and barrows, elms have a long association with the underworld. In Celtic mythology elves lived amongst the trees, guarding the barrows and protecting the dead that lay within them, overseeing the passage between life and death. With the advent of Christianity, travelling priests would give sermon beneath their branches. Its wood was used to make coffins.

The word wych is not associated with witches, though both witch and wych can be used interchangeably. It is the old English for pliant or supple. Being resistant to rot, the same qualities that made it a suitable wood for coffin-making also made it a good choice for boat hulls and bridge foundations. In Gaelic the tree is known as leven, which can still be seen in some Scottish place names. Loch Leven in Perth and Kinross, where Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned in its island castle, takes its name as a place where elm bark was used to make dyes for wool. Its inner bark was also boiled down to make a liquor, seen as a good medicinal cure for sore throats and colds. Despite the lack of any witch association, their long, broom-like branches extending up to thirty meters skyward definitely have a witchy air about them.

Survivors of disease, maker of coffins, of wool dye, of dogmas now long forgotten, their presence impressed upon me the nearness of something I find difficult to express: not a sacredness, as such, but an empathy, maybe – an empathy that seems to emerge out of their branches and extend out into the world. It leads me to think about that traditional false separation between the human and non-human, about the way all of life is threaded through, together – woven, as Tim Ingold writes, in a ‘domain of entanglement’.1 

Where do the trees end and I begin? Where is the boundary between tree, roots, soil, air, my breathing and thinking and being? It is not just a hippy idea of ‘oneness’, this, a flaky new age folksy feeling that yes, we are all connected, but an intellectual, phenomenological and objective reality. Everything really is whole within the multitudinous, messy complexity of everything: this domain of entangled life and death we wrap ourselves in. The elms are me. I am the elms.

Is this some radical new thought? Not at all. We all know that everything is interdependent, and yet why don’t we live by it? Why don’t we live as though elm is me and I am elm? There is less than 3% of truly ancient woodland left in Britain. The rest has been replaced by agriculture, commercial forestry, urban development and transport networks. We need all these things, but we also need the trees. We need to find a way to get ourselves entangled again, play a little twister.

Cities around the world are beginning to take up this idea, perhaps not as I’ve put it, but in a way that attempts to meld human and nonhuman ecologies; the most famous of them being Singapore where the Gardens by the Bay project has blended the old distinctions between the city and the wild. In Glasgow too, there are efforts to intertwine nature and culture and economy for a greener city, with the Glasgow Doughnut concept. 

The idea of the Glasgow Doughnut is a play on the doughnut economy idea developed by Kate Raworth, where human wellbeing and health is seen as being fundamentally connected to the health and wellbeing of the planet. The doughnut consists of two concentric rings: an inner ring that represents a social foundation where the needs of society are met within an outer ring that represents a known and measured ecological ceiling. Between these two rings is a zone that is both ecologically safe and socially just. Glasgow has followed the lead of cities like Amsterdam, the first to begin to practically take up Raworth’s concept in its recovery from the pandemic, and has commissioned a report recommending initiatives to help the city move toward a more entwined future that inhabits this space. If more and more cities take up this principal, we will live in a more socially just and environmentally sustainable world. 

The more I have visited Den Wood, the more this idea has seeped into me – from the elms perhaps, from their winter canopy of witchy broom and their summer shade. Not only the White Letter Hair Streak butterfly relies on them. We do too. Those and all the other tree and plant species with all the ecologies their roots, branches and canopies contain. We need to make space for them. We need to make them part of our everyday lives, not just tucked away in parks and gardens, but part of the infrastructures we live by. We need to live with and through and not apart from. Elm is me and I am elm. 

The sun dipped toward the lower branches and I trudged back through the snow between thickets of gorse and over fallen trunks. The wood would rot and become part of the woodland understory, supporting insects, beetles and worms, liverworts, mosses and lichens, enriching the top layers of the soil and allowing new growth. The moon rose higher ahead and the shadows deepened. I imagined myself part of the wood, asleep in the understory; come time, an elm growing where once I had lain. 

  1. See Tim Ingold, ‘Part II: The Meshwork’ in Being Alive: Essays on Movement, Knowledge and Description (Abingdon, Oxon: Routledge, 2011), pp. 63-94.

The Cusp of Change

As the western calendar year comes to a close, it’s a natural time to look back and reflect on the previous twelve months. It’s been a significant year for me on a personal level. I turned fifty early in the second quarter of 2023 – a significant event for anybody – and I successfully defended my PhD thesis early in November, which marked the culmination of a long process of research, writing and reflection that helped answer questions that have occupied my thoughts for many years: questions of place, of identity, of how the landscape shapes our lives. 

I have been able to explore these questions both creatively and academically, and the submission and accession of my thesis – comprised of a book-length work of creative nonfiction alongside a critical commentary – closes a significant period in my life whilst opening up another. The time spent working toward the PhD signifies a period of deep change and transition: from a former life as a helicopter pilot largely servicing the offshore oil and gas industry toward a new life that places my feet firmly on the ground, encompassing and embracing community and working in a way that is less certain but offers more freedom and is more in line with my values and the aspirations I have now.

This year has been one where I’ve seen hard work begin to pay off and a future direction begin to take shape, replacing the uncertainty that came with the end of a career and dominated my life as I embarked on doctoral study in the midst of a pandemic. It is a year that leaves me feeling hopeful and positive as I go forward, despite all the world-changing events that this same period has also been witness to. 

As a writer, I have seen some of my writing find a home with Stravaig, Hinterland nonfiction magazine and, this coming spring, one of the chapters from my PhD will be published in Archipelago, a literary journal I have long admired. I’m pleased that my approach to questions of place will also feature in an anthology of academic writing through the University of Eichstätt-Ingolstadt’s Practicing Place Centre, due for publication in 2024. I was also very happy to have had writing published in the Paperboats Zine, for which I took part in a launch event at the University of Stirling.

Beyond my own writing, in September I ran an outdoor creative writing workshop, helping people engage with their surroundings and fostering a sense of togetherness. Earlier in the year I became involved with the charity Open Book, running a pilot creative writing group over the spring and summer that has become an established, monthly group as part of Open Book’s Scotland-wide Community Project. Seeing people develop in confidence and find their own voice in a supportive group setting is something that is hugely rewarding and I look forward now to taking the group – just one of many Open Book groups across the country – into 2024.

As I head into the New Year I will also embark on a significant community engagement project, working in collaboration and consultation on commission to explore how people feel about where they live and documenting community story and memory. It’s a role I hope will expand and flourish through 2024 and beyond.

What can we do but go forward? Uncertainty and change will always run side by side with our lives. 2023 has shown me that, on a personal level at least, positive change is possible, and that, if change is needed, it is worth living with the uncertainty that comes with not knowing what the outcomes might be. Despite the fears, taking those first steps toward an uncertain future is important. The change that you walk toward, the change that you need, will find you.

The Don: A Sacred River

“Ian Grosz takes the reader on a journey, often on foot, to the half-hidden spiritual locales of the Don. Replete with historical and archaeological resonance, his journey through road, trail, stream and field is an elemental dance of often elusive elements. Spiritual faith as a palimpsest of earth, rock, water and culture remains a central theme as he leads us through histories of Gaelic saints, Pictish stones, cairns and Aberdeenshire stone circles with their distinctive recumbent stone. Places of transformation and spirituality are never far away from the divine river. The ancient goddess endures in a looping and recursive movement that exists differently from linear formulations of time and space.”

Neil Curtis and Jo Jones, Introduction, Four Rivers, Deep Maps, pp. 21-22.

The book Four Rivers: Deep Maps was published by UWAP and had an official launch early in Nov. There will be a second launch in the UK in the first quarter of 2023. The book has a diverse range of creative and scholarly responses to the two regions of Perth, WA, and Aberdeenshire. My own contribution is reviewed here by Neil Curtis in the book’s introduction:

UK stockists may be available next year, but if that’s piqued your interest, you can order the book directly from the publishers. Click on the image to go direct to UWAP for this and their other titles.