to hear the gods

Storm Isha has been named; the Met Office news press announced. She would rush through the country, sweeping it clear of the cold Artic air that had sat silent and heavy over the land, replacing it with the warm, moist air mass that was driving her forcibly across the Atlantic with tornado-strength windspeeds and the warnings of the destruction that would result. She brought with her the highest windspeeds the country had seen in twenty years. 

The wind through Glencoe’s highland pass reached 168 mph, the second-highest windspeed ever recorded in the UK. While the old Viking stronghold to the north in Kirkwall saw winds of 80 mph, Hoy’s brief winter wonderland melting beneath an atmosphere of salt and sea-spray. Videos from across Britain submitted to the BBC showed footage of collapsed roofs and flying furniture, debris from fallen trees and terrifying-looking approaches into airports besieged by crosswinds. 

My sister was trying to get home from Orkney after a week exploring its pre-historic sites: the megaliths that have metaphorically and spiritually stood watch over the island archipelago for thousands of years. Her flight south was disrupted and she was waylaid in Inverness. I thought about the lives of the Neolithic Orcadians who crossed that same turbulent stretch of sea that is the Pentland Firth, to and from the mainland, in boats of willow and hide. 

Life was short-lived with an expectancy that extended only into the mid-twenties, but still would have had its comforts and its pleasures: days in the sun collecting shellfish from the foreshore; gatherings and ceremony in the endless light of the northern summer; feasting and celebration at harvest time and long into the night of midwinter. Summer temperatures at the time the stones of Stenness were being lifted into place just east of the ceremonial complex at the Ness of Brodgar around 5000 years ago, were, on average, ten degrees warmer, the air significantly drier: something akin to the climate of the Mediterranean today; but by the Bronze Age the climate had shifted from warm and dry to cool and wet. 

No one can say what malignant gods they may have attributed to the eventual turning of the weather, to the failed crops and the winter storms that buried settlements like Scara Brae in the dunes. Today, we know. Today we call those gods ‘climate change’ and ‘global warming.’

Isha is a Hindu name, meaning ‘one who protects’; an odd name for a storm, you might say. But perhaps Isha calls for us to heed her warning, to take greater note of the taste of things to come that she and storms like her reveal to us. Isha was the ninth storm in less than five months and was closely followed by Jocelyn less than 36 hours later.

The march of relentless storms that now characterise the North Atlantic winter, we all know are the result of the warming in our oceans caused by anthropogenically driven climate change: the direct result of the C02 we have been pumping into the atmosphere since the beginning of the industrial revolution; from the C02 released in the melting of the permafrost and, indirectly, from the mass deforestation we are responsible for, taking away one of the planet’s ways to regulate its temperature. 

As a low-lying archipelago of many islands, Orkney is particularly vulnerable to sea level rise and the flooding caused by the increased frequency and intensity of storms that come with global warming. If the Greenland ice sheet completely melts – and it is already predicted that the Arctic Ocean could be ice free in summer by 2040 – the main island of Hoy will eventually become two separate islands, the stones of Stenness will be submerged and the famous Ring of Brodgar will become an isolated, low-lying island of its own.  

The industrial revolution has raised overall wealth and living standards, has driven advances in medical research and treatments, leading to life expectancies in the Global North that are fifty or sixty years longer than for the Neolithic people who erected the giant stones in Orkney. The stones are silent, but in their silence they still speak to us. They speak of loss, of absence, of a People that are long-gone but were just like us. The stones sat at the centre of their lives: there for all their births and deaths; their hopes and harvests; their fears in a world that was difficult to understand or explain. 

We may blame those early farmers for what came after them: for the turning away from the hunter-gatherer lifestyles that had dominated for millennia either side of the last great ice age; for the ideas associated with ancestry and territory; for the naming of lands not our own and for the obsession with surplus and growth and power; for the greed and the inequalities that define our age.  But how were they to know? How were they to hear their gods? 

As Isha approached, I went outside and stood in the garden to take in the night. The sky was nightmare dark, vast and cloudless. The winds had not yet reached their peak, but the branches of the silver birch at the back of our house were already swaying wildly against a backdrop of indifferent stars, witness to a world whose future is now being written. Will we be the generation that let things slide, allowed all to be swept into the sea with our own indifference? Or will we be a generation that took control, that said this matters, and not just to us but to all who will come after us?

I watched the swaying branches for a short time and then I headed for bed. Climbing the stairs as the wind moaned around the eaves and tried to lift the roof, I paused at the landing window to take a last look at the brittle, plate-glass clarity of the sky. The stars still glittered coldly and I thought of the stones in Orkney, the slate-grey sea, the waves pounding ever higher at Kirkwall’s harbour wall, and in the wind I heard, or imagined, the laughter and the murmur of story from a mid-winter feast five-thousand years ago. I felt strangely comforted by it: grateful for the stones those people left behind, grateful for the stories they tell. We, at least, have a way to hear our gods. 

For further reference, please see:

National Oceanography Centre – UK Storms

The Cusp of Change

As the western calendar year comes to a close, it’s a natural time to look back and reflect on the previous twelve months. It’s been a significant year for me on a personal level. I turned fifty early in the second quarter of 2023 – a significant event for anybody – and I successfully defended my PhD thesis early in November, which marked the culmination of a long process of research, writing and reflection that helped answer questions that have occupied my thoughts for many years: questions of place, of identity, of how the landscape shapes our lives. 

I have been able to explore these questions both creatively and academically, and the submission and accession of my thesis – comprised of a book-length work of creative nonfiction alongside a critical commentary – closes a significant period in my life whilst opening up another. The time spent working toward the PhD signifies a period of deep change and transition: from a former life as a helicopter pilot largely servicing the offshore oil and gas industry toward a new life that places my feet firmly on the ground, encompassing and embracing community and working in a way that is less certain but offers more freedom and is more in line with my values and the aspirations I have now.

This year has been one where I’ve seen hard work begin to pay off and a future direction begin to take shape, replacing the uncertainty that came with the end of a career and dominated my life as I embarked on doctoral study in the midst of a pandemic. It is a year that leaves me feeling hopeful and positive as I go forward, despite all the world-changing events that this same period has also been witness to. 

As a writer, I have seen some of my writing find a home with Stravaig, Hinterland nonfiction magazine and, this coming spring, one of the chapters from my PhD will be published in Archipelago, a literary journal I have long admired. I’m pleased that my approach to questions of place will also feature in an anthology of academic writing through the University of Eichstätt-Ingolstadt’s Practicing Place Centre, due for publication in 2024. I was also very happy to have had writing published in the Paperboats Zine, for which I took part in a launch event at the University of Stirling.

Beyond my own writing, in September I ran an outdoor creative writing workshop, helping people engage with their surroundings and fostering a sense of togetherness. Earlier in the year I became involved with the charity Open Book, running a pilot creative writing group over the spring and summer that has become an established, monthly group as part of Open Book’s Scotland-wide Community Project. Seeing people develop in confidence and find their own voice in a supportive group setting is something that is hugely rewarding and I look forward now to taking the group – just one of many Open Book groups across the country – into 2024.

As I head into the New Year I will also embark on a significant community engagement project, working in collaboration and consultation on commission to explore how people feel about where they live and documenting community story and memory. It’s a role I hope will expand and flourish through 2024 and beyond.

What can we do but go forward? Uncertainty and change will always run side by side with our lives. 2023 has shown me that, on a personal level at least, positive change is possible, and that, if change is needed, it is worth living with the uncertainty that comes with not knowing what the outcomes might be. Despite the fears, taking those first steps toward an uncertain future is important. The change that you walk toward, the change that you need, will find you.

Taking Notice

In our busy lives, bombarded as we are with news and media and the demands of life and work and family, we very rarely have space to notice the world around us, to pause and to take stock of the passage of time, the changing of the seasons and just where we’re at with ourselves. But writing can help us to do that. It helps us to take notice because it focuses our attention. Linda Cracknell writes: ‘The small weight of a notebook and pen in my pocket is my passport to feeling alive […] The act of writing causes us to refresh our tired ways of noticing.’*

Taking these thoughts as inspiration, I ran a workshop at a local visitor centre at the weekend, first exploring outdoors, encouraging close attention through the conscious use of all the senses and recording our experiences, before coming together in a collaborative space to share what we had seen and felt, writing a group poem with everyone’s input.

The workshop was as much about allowing ourselves that time and space to be, and to notice the world around us, as it was about creative writing; and that experience shared, brought a wonderful sense of connection: with the landscape, with both the past and the present, and with each other.

Paying attention – focussing on the world around us, how we experience it, in that mindful, conscious way – always has the power to connect us with others and a world outside of ourselves. It’s this sense of connection people attending felt the most, I think. It’s certainly what I took away from it, and it was great to see folk who were previously strangers coming together this way in just two short hours.

Attendees at the Autumn Words Creative Writing Workshop.

* Linda Cracknell, ‘Script and Scrape’, in Writing Landscape: Taking Note, Making Notes – In The Moment (Glasgow: Saraband, 2023), pp. 1-10, p.3.

Slains Castle – A House of Ghosts

“We came in the afternoon to Slanes Castle, built upon the margin of the sea, so that the walls of one of the towers seem only a continuation of a perpendicular rock, the foot of which is beaten by the waves. To walk round the house seemed impracticable. From the windows the eye wanders over the sea that separates Scotland from Norway, and when the winds beat with violence must enjoy all the terrifick grandeur of the tempestuous ocean.I would not for my amusement wish for a storm; but as storms, whether wished or not, will sometimes happen, I may say, without violation of humanity, that I should willingly look out upon them from Slanes Castle.’

So mused Samuel Johnson who passed this way with his friend and travel companion, James Boswell, in the late summer of 1773 on their journey through Scotland to the Western Isles. Johnson’s account of the trip became the famous A Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland, later followed by Boswell’s The Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides, which brings the irascible Johnson joyfully to life. This being two-hundred-and-fifty-years since their passage through Aberdeenshire on their circuitous route westward, I felt compelled to visit the castle today.

Johnson doesn’t mention staying there, the castle then under the care of the Count of Errol, but he and Boswell spent the night at Slains after an excursion along the coast. It must have been opulently appointed in its day, but it’s a bleak and desolate ruin overlooking the cliffs now, the wind rushing through its empty corridors and doorless openings straight off the sea.

‘I had a most elegant room,’ Boswell writes: ‘but there was a fire in it which blazed: and the sea, to which my windows looked, roared: and the pillows were made with the feathers of some sea-fowl, which had to me a disagreeable smell: so that, by all these causes, I was kept awake a good while.’

In his half-waking, fitful sleep, he imagines the ghost of Lord Kilmarnock who had married into the Erroll title and was beheaded on Tower Hill in 1746 for his part in the Jacobite uprising. Wandering around the castle’s old halls and passageways, I couldn’t help but think of what other ghosts it might be host to.

The original thirteenth-century castle, a fortress built by the Comyn family five miles further along the coast to the south, was forfeited after the Battle of Barra in 1308 to the Hay family after the defeat of the Earl of Buchan, John Comyn, whose troops scattered and fled from the battlefield when Bruce himself appeared waving his standard. The new castle was built in the sixteenth century by Francis Hay, the ninth Earl of Errol, and grew from its original tower house into a Baronial style mansion. At the time of Johnson and Boswell’s visit it was still in the title of the Erroll line, but was sold in 1916 by the twentieth earl, whose finances, following previous generations of lavish spending and an agricultural recession, couldn’t maintain the upkeep.

The castle is most famous today for hosting Bram Stoker in the early part of the twentieth century, who would holiday regularly in nearby Cruden Bay and was thought to have been inspired by its setting. It’s certainly dramatic, and with the tail end of Storm Agnes still bringing the spray up over the rocks and flinging the crows from the castle turrets, I spent some time watching the waves crashing into the cliffs from a window at the northern end of the ruins. I could almost feel Johnson’s breath on me. ‘Well, sir!’ he seemed to be saying. ‘What did I tell you?!’

Later, walking along the cliffs, I watched a solitary cormorant surfing the air between the waves, its dark aquiline shape momentarily vanishing behind crests in the swell. I wondered if it relished a storm, and whether Johnson’s ghost was watching too, looking out from one of the windows in the castle’s now empty rooms.

Our Lady of the Storms

With the long, cold month of January drawing to a close, we took a walk along the Aberdeenshire coast from the historic fishing town of Stonehaven just ten miles south of Aberdeen. It was still cold, but dry with little wind, the sea flat calm and the low sun of a northern winter’s afternoon casting its glow across the clifftops. The path climbs steadily upwards from Stonehaven’s harbour above the rocks and old fisherman’s cottages at Cowie, where tall poles once used to spread and dry the fishing nets still poke up awkwardly out of the communal green space like some ancient wooden henge.

We were making our way to an old Catholic chapel perched precariously high on the sandstone cliffs and once dedicated to the Pictish Saint Nathalan who is attributed to several of the early churches of Aberdeenshire. His treasure is said to have been buried wrapped in a bull’s hide somewhere between the old chapel and its outer wall. The extant building dates to the thirteenth-century – some six-hundred years after Saint Nathalan’s time – and is also known as the Chapel of Our Lady of the Storms, re-dedicated to Saint Mary in 1276. The ruins of Cowie Castle, built by the Scottish king Malcolm Canmore in the eleventh-century, are just a short distance to the south, passed as you approach the chapel from the direction of Stonehaven along the narrow clifftop path. 

We spent half an hour or so wandering around the chapel’s burial ground as the sun sank steadily toward the fields. An old yew tree and holly tree take up much of the chapel’s roofless interior, and its stone arches catching the low winter sun in the stillness of the late afternoon created that eerie sense of time’s suspension. We found no treasure, but there are the gravestones of local fisherman lost at sea and a memorial commemorating a crew of lifeboatmen who drowned in the February of 1874. The sun finally dipped out of view and we made our way back along the cliffs, the old fisherman’s cottages at Cowie shrouded in deepening shadow and the waves just audible amongst the rocks below.